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  1. Earlier
  2. As noted in the article there is some lateral play or wiggle in this rail. Really cranking down the barrel nuts helps a little, but a better solution is to put a sling mount or some other rail accessory between the two pieces. Using the Magpul sling mount I was able to remove all perceived play.
  3. SAS MKA 1919 Aluminum Lower

    Discussion topic for the SAS aluminum lower.
  4. Click Image For Larger View Before you can start building up your new receiver, you need to strip the old one of a few pieces. There is no need to remove any of the gas system or barrel components, but you can if it makes working easier on your bench. Start by removing the two screws securing the butt-pad. They are concealed behind two small openings but can be seen partially backed out in the image to the right. The screws are actually Pozidrive, however if you do not have a bit a Phillips driver will work. With the pad removed, now assemble a 6mm socket driver and 12' extension. Click Image For Larger View There is a single bolt that secures the upper to the lower. Using the 6mm socket driver, unscrew the bolt 5 turns. Next, remove the wrench and tap the extension and bit with a mallet. You will not start to see the upper and lower start to separate. Snap the wrench back onto the extension, and continue the remove the bolt in the normal fashion. The bolt and plate will fall free and can be placed to the side. The upper will now rotate forward freely and separate so you can continue to scavenge parts from it. Click Image For Larger View The bolt hold back latch comes off in the familiar fashion. A few taps from a 1/16" punch and the pin will fall free and the latch can be lifted out. The SAS site instructs the hole to be drilled out to 0.093". I actually used a 0.088 bit and found the fit to be a little better. Either one will drill very quick as you are only opening the hole up a few thousandths. In a pinch a hand drill will do the job, just make sure to wear gloves. For those of you running three gun with your MKA 1919, you have probably considered upgrading your polymer lower to an aluminum one. There are two popular choices out there, the Firebird MKA lower and the SAS lower. The main difference between the two is that the Firebird is a two piece lower and slightly heavier, while the SAS lower is one piece and lacks the floating feed ramps. We will talk more about that later in the article. For this review, we will cover the SAS MKA 1919 aluminum lower and the basic installation. Upon receiving your lower, you will find a few things in the box. The SAS lower itself, along with the various hardware that cannot be recycled from the old receiver. What you will not find is instructions. Thankfully the MKA builds up pretty much the same way any other M4 / AR15 platform would. The receiver itself is very high quality in finish. The anodizing is above par, and even with close inspection no machining lines were visible. The bolt catch pin is a threaded one which is a nice touch. I have seen a lot of amateur "gunsmiths" mar the hell out of a lower trying to set the bolt catch pin. The increased pic size will however require you to drill it out ever so slightly. Strangely the buffer tube adapter is a separate piece. I am not sure what that is about, but when all put together the lines of the weapon still flow nicely. Click Image For Larger View Removing the magazine release catch is a little different on the MKA 1919 than it is on the M4. Instead of pressing the button all the way in and un-screwing it from the right side, it is simple screwed on. On this particular rifle there was an insane amount of torque needed to remove this screw. Having said that, you will want to use a quality Flathead to avoid stripping the head out. Click Image For Larger View The hammer and trigger pins need to be driven out from left to right. For me these were in stupid tight. I had to start them with a 3/16' punch before driving them out with a 5/32". Not sure if this is normal, but be prepared to be patient here. If you are not sure that you are driving them the correct way, double check to make sure you are hammering on the rounded side... I know... Click Image For Larger View At this point, everything goes back into the new receiver in the same fashion as any other M4 build. There are instructions on the site should you need to look up anything. So with that out of the way, how does the new receiver preform? Well on mine I had a few issues and concerns. First was the fit of magazines. My ten round mags would fit in but very tight. Actually took took people to pull them back out. The OEM 5rd mags that came with the gun would not fit at all. After some searching around the net, there were some other people with the same issue. That said the ten round magazines would probably wear in and be OK yet never drop free. The five round mags would have been a lost cause. I contacted the supplier but as of writing this I have not heard back. My solution was fix it myself. I marked up the mag well with Dykem and inserted the magazines as far as I could. The center ridge at the back of the magazine turned out to be the issue. Using a full flute end-mill bit I started removing material slowly. By the end I had to remove a fair amount of material. That is to say, enough material that these would have never "worn in". For the machinist out there, the depth was 0.086. At that point neither the ten or five round mags would drop free, but they could be pulled out with finger strength. I will let them wear for a while and remove more material if necessary. So finally... how did it preform? The short answer is great for me. Using a standard stock I was able to get the platform back to the correct LOP for me. In 75 rounds not malfunctions. Keep in mind this was on a previously broken in gun. While it should have been obvious, the purpose of the floating feed-ramps hit me when I got back to the bench to strip and clean. With this receiver, you have to separate the upper and lower if you want to clean the bolt. Based on the PITA UBR II, I can say this is something I will not be doing often. If you are OCD, this may be a plus for the Firebird Precision lower. All in all I would recommend this upgrade if you are using the platform for 3G, or you need a shorter LOP. I feel like a good deal of the pros and cons of this upgrade are subjective. For that reason please chime in at the SAS lower discussion topic if you feel differently.
  5. Just as an FYI radical firearms has a sale on .50 uppers.
  6. Magpul UBR Review

    GEN II review up at
  7. Magpul UBR Gen II

    Magpul has long been one of the go-to suppliers for furniture for almost any AR or AK build. With the UBR stock recently discontinued, fans have been waiting for the replacement UBR GEN-II. Before jumping into this review, lets go over a few of the reasons you may be considering this stock. For us, the reason the UBR has always been at the top of the list is its strength. This stock is beyond rigid. In addition it is also one of the heavier stocks out there. While this may be a draw back for a pencil build 5.56, this is perfect for helping to balance the weight on something like an AR shotgun or .50 Beowulf. Being completely free from any rattle also helps instill extra confidence in the sometimes intimidating larger calibers. For those of you who like a little junk in the trunk, the UBR has a storage compartment large enough for a few batteries, shell extractor, and NFA paper work. Personally I find these to be an annoyance, so thankfully on both the GEN I and GEN II the doors can be removed. Both versions do require that you use the UBR proprietary buffer tube which is included. So with that out of the way lets take a look at the new UBR GEN II. I will start out by saying this. I usually like Magpul products and may be slightly bias. With the exception of PMAGs and a few of the low end BUIS, I usually recommend Magpul. Waiting several months for this stock gave us something to look forward to. That said, everyone here feels like the GEN II UBR is a step backwards in every way except for price and weight. Click Image For Larger View With everything installed, you will notice a few differences right away. First is the length of pull (LOP) which is increased by 0.48". This is to accommodate what I refer to as the goofy ass A5 buffer system. This is just me, but I feel that if your weapon is not over gassed there is no need for the A5 system. If it is over gassed, or you shoot suppressed, that a pinned adjustable gas block is a much better solution. Rant done and moving along. For those of use familiar with the UBR GEN I, we know that the next step is to set the "memory" to your preferred position. For me this was collapsed with armour, and position 3 without. When you go to do this on the GEN II, you will notice some changes. These changes are, you are SOL. So longer LOP, specialized tools, and no memory. Well, at least it is a few dollars cheaper? With sling attachment points pretty much the same as the original, you can now turn your attention to attaching your preferred sling. If you want, you can take this time to upgrade the strike face to a metal one for a more secure sling mounting point... wait. No you cannot. They removed that also. The big question is how does it preform. Like the previous version, this stock is a tank. It helps balance front heavy weapons, and all while being totally silent. It is a great stock, and we do recommend it with a caveat. That caveat being, get the GEN I if you can find it. Maybe others will have a difference option. If so let us know in the UBR Discussion Topic. Click Image For Larger View Of GEN I vs GEN II Right out of the box the UBR II was less user friendly than its predecessor. For the first time in ages reading the instruction manual became a necessity. The GEN II requires special tools to install. To Magpuls credit they are included. OK, so it requires a little reading. Nothing wrong with technology and continued education. One of the specialized tool is what I am going to call the fat rabbit for giggles. To install the stock you start by removing the stock itself from the buffer tube. This is done in the pretty typical way or moving it all the way reward then depressing the latch at the front while pulling back. OK, so far so good. Then you need to use the fat rabbit (shown at bottom) to pry the cheek piece off the tube. So there is something new. With those two pieces out of the way, the tube installs in the usual manor. Well, almost. You do need a special adapter on your armour's wrench, which is included. Click Image For Larger View Of Fat Rabbit Stock Tool
  8. Akdal MKA 1919 Match 3 Gun Build

    Was breaking in new mags and two have an issue when only two shells are loaded... yes I was shooting trap with it. With two shells loaded it jammed every time. With any other number loaded it ran like a top. Two out of my four 5rd mags do this.
  9. Akdal MKA 1919 Match 3 Gun Build

    Trying out the Vortex Sparc II on this build.
  10. Akdal MKA 1919 Match 3 Gun Build

    Review and install of the Tooth and Nail forend.
  11. A better look at the engraved logo from the above mentioned article.
  12. If you own an Akdal MKA 1919, you know from the factory you have limited accessory mounting options. Personally I am not a huge fan of rails on shotguns, but I do love the ability to weak side charge. Anyone looking to modify these shotguns has undoubtedly stumbled across Tooth And Nail Armory (T&N). This is who made the piece we will be reviewing today. For the reasons stated above, we opted for the "Level 10 Rail" which has the side charge handle installed. A quick visit to their site and eight days later we had the part in hand. When ordering there are a ton of options for configuration. Because we were not looking to add any additional accessories at this time, we ordered the basic 12" forend. In the box, you will find the forend, adapter plate, o-ring, and very basic instructions. When we say "basic" we mean it. Thankfully this install takes less than five minutes and is not rocket-science. Click Image To Enlarge Installation should take less than five minutes with common tools. Start by removing the 4mm allen bolts on the front sight. To avoid marring the finish, splay the mounting tabs of the sight apart gently as you lift off the sight. There are flats machined into the barrel so avoid twisting as you lift it off. Now, remove the forend nut highlighted below in yellow. As you move the the forward band off, the clam-shell hand-guards will fall off. Set those aside, and lift off the hand-guard base plate, what would be the delta ring on a M4. Click Image To Enlarge With the stock parts removed, slide the T&N base plate over the barrel with the narrower portion facing away from the receiver. With a little bit of pressure it will press into place and become flush with the upper receiver. If you cannot get it all the way flush, do not worry. When you tighten the forend on, it will press into place. Now lower the new forend over the barrel and guide rod assuring that the flange on the base plate slides into the forend. Before reinstalling the secure nut, make sure to slide the provided o-ring over it. Tighten the secure nut until the forend no longer has excess movement in it. Worth noting is there will always be a small amount of play in the forarm if you apply enough force. If you are anal, like we are, you can install a sling mount between the upper and the rail. That will fix the problem. Click Image To Enlarge Click Image To Enlarge The build quality of the forend is extremely robust. It achieves a nice balance between being so light it feels weak, and having so much mass it feels unrefined. Tolerances across the entire forend were very good. The finish is what I would consider average at best. With a retail over $200.00 there is room for improvement here. If you look at the photo above you can see where the charge handle had what looks like smut on it prior to finishing. The logo which is supposed to be engraved, was also not touched off properly prior to engraving. Instead of an angry dog, it ended up looking more like an acid spill after anodizing. That said, we will probably duracoat the rail once we are happy with everything on the weapon. So with that out of the way, lets take a look at the fit and install. Click Image To Enlarge There are a few comments on the internet about excess gap between the receiver and rail. This was an issue on the earlier XN guns, and appears to be fixed on the Match Gen II weapons. In the photo above you can see there is no gap. The forend does not however match the taper of the upper. While this would add some machining cost, it would be a nice touch on the next generation of rails. The same goes for at the bottom where the receiver is radiused. Matching the two parts would be an excellent touch. Click Image To Enlarge The open design of the forend will allow everything to run cooler, however it does expose the gas system to more debris. For 3-Gun this is not an issue, however is not ideal if you plan to service the weapon. That said, the side charge makes a huge difference charging the weapon or clearing it. As far as speed on reloads, I do not think it makes a difference one way or another. Overall the T&N rail is slightly narrower and slightly taller than the OEM grip. Depending on your stance and size of your hands, this can be a pro or a con. With this rail, removal of the A2 front sight is required for general cleaning. If you like having back up iron sights, this can be a problem. It is however a problem easy enough to fix with a rail mounted A2 sight. The weapon is more than long enough to still give you a long enough sight radius especially for a shotgun. For the OCD crowd, there is also a little lateral play. This can be addressed, and I will talk about it in the discussion topic below. So in summations is this a worthwhile upgrade? Absolutely! The feel of the weapons and over all function is improved greatly. So if you are on the fence, stop waiting. Take the plunge and give this rail a shot. Did we get something wrong? It does happen. Let us know is the Side Charge Rail Discussion Topic.
  13. If you participate in or follow 3 gun, you have undoubtedly seen the Akdal MKA 1919 by now. With 3 gun unlimited (previously open) being dominated by Saigas and Vepr 12s, it is always interesting to see something new. With the MKA 1919 out for over a decade a lot of people are wondering why this shotgun is not more prolific. The answer is not surprisingly, reliability. While all semi-auto shotguns tend to have their quirks, the MKA 1919 had more than its share. The first generations were plagued with both reliability and durability issues. The GEN2 has addressed all these issues. Sadly, the US will still not get the MKA 1919 Match Pro which features an all alloy receiver due to sporting/importation limitations. Head up though, there is a large aftermarket following for this weapon. So lets take a look at this platform and the features that may finally make the MKA 1919 a Saiga killer. Click Image For Larger View On the business end there are also some updates. While still using internal choke tubes, they are no longer Winchoke pattern tubes. Winchoke tubes are 0.816" x 32. The new MKA tubes are 21mm x 32 (0.824" x 32). Because the thread pitch is the same, Winchoke tubes will screw in and even seem tight. After a few rounds that eighth thousands of an inch catches up to you, and they will loosen. So sad news on that front. Turning to the gas system and bolt, there were some much needed improvements. The gas regulator nut is still a standard right thread, but the jam/lock nut is now a left thread. So far this seems to have fixed the loosening that some earlier owners had. The feed ramps and are not metal and pretty much the entire bolt and carrier have been upgraded. With only 200 rounds through the weapon so far, it is still too early to say how all these improvements will play out. The initial results look promising though. Click Image For Larger View The one aspect that still needs improvement in our opinion are the sights. The sights are m4 style with a peep or blade option on the rear. It is hard to show in a photo, but rapid target acquisition with this set up is out of the question. While I am not generally a fan of red-dot or reflex sights on a shotgun, this platform really benefits from one. So with a street price of around $450 USD is this the holy grail of 3gun ready scatterguns? The answer is both yes, and no. The MKA 1919 is a great platform, but far from competition ready. There are aftermarket parts out there to really make this weapon shine. Parts such off-side charge handles, billet lowers, better stocks and so on. So if you are buying this for 3 gun, expect to invest another thousand dollars or so. Even at $1450 you will be competitive for much less than a prepped Vepr or Saiga 12. The UTAS XTR is a strong option also, but for those of us who prefer a side charge I give the MKA the edge. As always if we got something wrong, tell us. MKA 1919 Match Discussion Thread. Click Image For Larger View Click Image For Larger View On the strong side of the weapon, the first thing you will notice is the now standard ambidextrous safety and over sized magazine release. The logo has also been slightly changed from the previous MKA 1919 XN model. In addition, the charge handle has been updated to what I guess you would call a tactical one. All of these improvements are a massive step in the correct direction. While the safety still feels too smooth and slightly undersized, it does make an effort to support the south paws out there. The massive magazine release button is all but impossible to miss. Magazines now drop free, something that was hit and miss on previous generations. The trigger is slightly lighter than the older XN variant. Over a ten pulls it averaged 8lb 10oz. It is still very much on the heavy side, but the reset is crisp and there is no perceivable over-travel. The bolt release is now also larger and much easier to release even with thick gloves on if you use the palm slap method. Click Image For Larger View Included with the gun, you will find a plastic accessory case. In the case are the extra choke tubes, choke tube key, and the heavy load gas ring. Changing the choke tubes is the only aspect of maintenance or general usage that requires any tools. Worth noting is the gun we received was clean and oiled. It seems more and more common to get a new firearm that is fairly dirty and dry. It is nice to get something, especially in this price range, that you can just pull out of the box safety check and fire. As time goes on, we will keep you posted on reliability in the thread found here: MKA 1919 Match Discussion. Click Image For Larger View Check the discussion forums for updates as we build this up for 3 gun unlimited.
  14. Akdal MKA 1919 Match 3 Gun Build

    In the mail
  15. Akdal MKA 1919 Match 3 Gun Build

    Where is the drum?
  16. Its funny. Since 41F wait times have been nuts. I have a couple stamps out still that were filed in the first week of July in 2016. Everyone is going nuts, especially the first time people. I had stamps back in 2011 that took just as long. I guess its just snowflakes
  17. H&K MP5 Discussion

  18. After decades, a lot of the firearm community is pondering is the reign of the MP5 finally over? With the MP5 being adopted by countless agencies, it is no wonder that it has achieved what some would call "fanboy" status. In addition to widespread agency use, the MP5 has be blessed with numerous Hollywood appearances. Anyone who remembers the 1980s understands the appeal of "karate chop reload". The question that remains, "is the MP5 doomed to relegation in the past like the DeLorean"? Lets begin by looking at the roll the MP5 was designed to fill. The MP5 is a personal defense weapon (PDW) plain and simple. It was not designed to be a long range engagement rifle. It was designed with intent of CQC and the occasional high value asset protection where it had to be discrete. Recently, there has been a trend with a lot of departments to replace the MP5 with short barrel M4s. With more threats utilizing armour, this decision has its merits. With a pistol caliber round , .40/10mm/9mm, the MP5 is no armour breaker. That said, it is a lot smaller than even the shortest M4. In addition the 5.56 NATO round is not a fun round to fire indoors or from a vehicle. While there is no denying the M4 has loads of additional stopping power, it is my opinion it is not well suited for the PDW specific roll. The M4 is a multifunction tool, and much like your scanner/copier/printer/fax, it cannot fill the PWD specific roll like a purpose built platform. Click Image For Larger View The group on right shows 25 shots fired from 15 meters and another 25 shots from 30 meters with iron sights. The weapon was zeroed for 50 meters, and performed well considering a sub 5' barrel. Taking your time, sub 1" groups at 30m are very doable. That said, out at 100m with the iron sights my groups did open up quite a bit. At 100m though, you are well beyond indoor engagement ranges. By comparison with the CZ Scorpions I have shot, my groups average .5' larger at 30m with the CZ. With the Sig Sauer MPX my groups are consistently the same as with the H&K platform. That is to say, the weapon is probably more accurate than I will ever be. Worth noting is that at the time I am writing this, the MP5 has 1400 rounds through it. In that time I am amazed it did not have a single malfunction. This is both suppressed and non-suppressed with ammo ranging from 50 grains up to 147 grains. While the Sig also ran like a champ, the CZ Scorpion had trouble with rounds under 70g. We get asked often why we use sub 70g ammo. The reason is simply velocity and energy. Even with commercially available loads, 400+ ft/lb is pretty common with lighter sintered rounds. That said, while suppressed the go-to is 147g ammo due to it staying subsonic under most conditions. Click Image For Larger View Click Image For Larger View To the right, you can clearly see the size advantage of the MP5 even with the longer F style stock. By comparison, even with a supressor the MP5 is over an inch shorter in OAL. So at 14.25' the MP5 is compact even by Sig Sauer MPX (17") or CZ Scorpion (16.2') standards. So how does such a compact platform perform from an accuracy standpoint? Click Image For Larger View So with the empirical out of the way, lets look at the other factors. First is, the MP5 is a roller locked action. Compared with other 9mm platforms out there, to me the MP5 is more controllable from a recoil standpoint especially when in select fire. Tuning can be Saiga 12 painful though on some firearms I have seen. A couple needed +.04 rollers due to wear pretty quickly (25k rounds) mostly due to poor servicing. Next is, the side charge action. This is personal preference, but I prefer racking with my off hand. This is one of the main reasons you usually see me with a MKA 1919 over a UTAS XTR. For me it is just faster during function drills and reloads. So will the MP5 be dethroned anytime soon? I think it already has been by the FN Herstal P90. As much as I love H&K and the MP5, the P90 is a serious platform. For CQC deployment, I do not think it can be beat. Be sure to check back for our upcoming P90 review. So why do I still have a soft spot for the MP5? Maybe it is the cheaper ammo, portability, ergonomics, or over all feel. Then again, maybe I just get sentimental over those Die Hard karate chop reloads. Did we get it wrong? It does happen. Let us know what you think in the MP5 discussion topic here.
  19. The first stage for reloading cartridges (Pistol or Rifle) is cleaning the brass. If you are using virgin brass you can skip this step, but otherwise this much debated topic is your starting point. Your first and foremost concern should be safety. You are working with dangerous components that require care when handling and a well ventilated area. Before we get started, lets talk about a few reasons to clean and polish your brass, prior to reloading. The two primary reasons are for inspection and reducing friction in the reloading process. Whenever reusing a case, you need to insure it does not show signs of excessive pressure or over use. We will discuss warning signs in another article. The next reason is wear and tear on the reloading machine. Clean brass puts less wear on dies and requires less friction to load, providing a more consistent finish. Just how clean does it need to be? That is a matter of personal preference and highly debated. Some people use a multiple step process to render the brass spotless with a mirror finish. Others say just wash the dirt off and go for it. From our experience the best answer is somewhere in between. The goal is clean brass with no signs of carbon build up and minimal, to no tarnish. Click Image For Larger View Above, you can see a typical example of spent shell casings. They have a dull finish with signs of carbon around the case mouth and a layer of carbon inside the case. The first step in our process involves washing the brass. If it is a small quantity, simply place the brass into a one gallon Ziploc bag. Fill the bag half full with hot water and a single pump of Dawn dish soap. Agitate the bag a few times and let the brass soak 5-10 minutes before rinsing with fresh water. The reason for this step is to help minimize the release of airborne lead. While many people will debate the need for this step, we insist that it is a necessary precaution that only takes a few seconds. If you reload, we highly suggest you periodically test for lead contamination in your work area. A simple kit such as this 3M lead kit, will either put your mind at ease that your work station cleaning procedure is adequate, or tell you that you need to improve your cleaning regimen and be more careful in the future. Click Image For Larger View With the brass finished soaking, now is the time to lay it out to dry. If you do not wear gloves for this step, wash your hands immediately after finishing. It should also be stated that smoking and eating should always be avoided whenever handling casings, as there is an increased risk of transferring lead from your hands to your lungs or stomach. I usually place the casings I want to reload in old ammo trays. This allows me to easily inspect the brass while at the same time confirming its caliber. In the image below, you cans see that there are a few 10mm rounds mixed in with the bulk of the rounds, which are .40. Now is the time you want to find this out, not when sitting at your press dealing with some form of equipment malfunction. Click Image For Larger View While the brass is drying, start preparing your tumbler. I suggest doing this outside for the lead concerns stated above. So far, our favorite mix is one liter of crushed walnuts and two tablespoons Mothers PowerMetal. The crushed walnut can be purchased at your local pet store in different sizes and is usually marketed for bedding use. The polish is not that difficult to find in most areas, but can be ordered off-line here for less. The reason we suggest this polish, other than in our opinion it works awesome, is that it is ammonia free and will not weaken the brass. With the polish added to the media, turn on the tumbler for 5-10 minutes to distribute the polish evenly. Click Image For Larger View With the polished mixed in, now add the shells. We recommend leaving the spent primers in the casings for this step. This prevents any of the media from entering the flash hole of the primer pocket, which you will have to dig out later. A common question is how many shells should you polish at once. This depends on the size and power of your tumbler and the finish you are seeking. If you add excess brass to the point that it bangs against itself, you will end up with a satin finish. While this will not hurt performance, it may not yield the mirror finish some are looking for. I have had good results keeping the ratio of shells to media to a 1:3 by volume ratio. Your ratio may need to be adjusted based on the power and size of your tumbler. Click Image For Larger View If you are using crushed walnut, 45 minutes to an hour will give you the results shown below. It is best described as a gloss satin finish. If you want something with more of a mirror finish, you can run the brass for an additional hour in a crushed corn cob media. While you can start with the corn media, this will increase the total polishing time. As is usually the case, polishing is best done in steps. If you do opt for the one step corn cob method, reported typical tumbling times are usually around 4 hours. If you do use corn, be aware that the crushed cob you typically find at most pet stores will not work very well. It contains chaff and other bits, not just the pit. If you use corn media, it needs to be blast media, not pet bedding. Click Image For Larger View While several companies offer media separators, we have found that fryer baskets, such as this one work just as well. They also allow us to have several inexpensive baskets around for different media. Again, keep in mind safety in this step. The media will be loaded with lead dust. Once you have removed your casings, you can set aside the media for reuse later. Click Image For Larger View A lot of people have reported that tumbling their casings does not clean out the inside of the shells. Above, you can see shells that were tumbled for one hour in crushed walnut and as reported, the insides are not clean. For pistol and non-precision loading they are clean enough, but there are cases where you may want the insides cleaned also. To accomplish this, there is a simple trick, water. Once you have loaded the media into the tumbler along with the polish, add water until all of the media is wet and a thin layer will float out on the top when the tumbler is on. The casings below were run in this way for one hour in the media, followed by 5 minutes using only dry walnut media to remove the film left by the water and polish. You can clearly see the difference inside the shells. Click Image For Larger View Whatever method you decide to use, exercise care and safety for both yourself and those around you. If you are not comfortable with a step, ask a more experienced reloader, or post it up on our forums. Have fun, and let us know if you find any other tips for polishing or secret recipes for polishing media. Click Image For Larger View After seeing a lot of talk about using brown rice as a polishing media, we decided to test it. We also tested Flourite as a faster option to walnut shells. In the above side by side image, you can see that both media produced a satin blasted finish not a shiny one. Some people prefer this finish, so it does have its place. Both batches were run 1 hour in a vibrasonic tumbler. The rice was run dry and the Flourite was run with 2 cups of water in 4cups of Flourite. The Flourite media had the added benefit of cleaning the inside of the case as well as cleaning up very easily. Although it is more expensive than walnut shells, it would make a great one step polishing media if you are looking for a satin finish. The rice on the other hand did little to the inside of the case other than coat it with a layer of powdered rice and plug up the flash hole even though the rounds had not been de-capped. If there is anything else you would like tosee tested let us know.
  20. As with all things Beowulf, finding a muzzle brake can also be difficult. If you have standard threading on your barrel, there are a few great companies out there making brakes for this application. In our case however, we standardized on the less common 19 x 1.25 thread pitch. So when it came time to finish off our barrel, we knew we would have to go the custom route. Lucky for use the people at Grizzly Gunworks, were more than happy to help out. Below you can see a custom Ghost Protocol brake on a .50 Beowulf A2 upper. Click Image For Larger View Having never worked with Grizzly before, we were not sure how the process would go. A few email exchanges and we were excited to hear the process would be easier than ordering a barrel. All we had to do was pick a style, and provide a drawing of the specs of our application. Wanting to keep everything simple for the review, we opted for a thread on Ghost Protocol muzzle brake, threaded in 19 x 1.25. A few weeks later this beauty showed up at our door in bead-blasted stainless steel as requested. Click Image For Larger View Our first impression was, "what a beast". As with most accessories purpose built for slinging half inch lead, this was heavy. Tipping in at over 12oz, this brake helped reduce perceived muzzle rise with mass alone. Once installed, the brake added just over 2" to the total length of the barrel. While our test platform was already fairly heavy for an M4, this brake did add some noticeable weight. In our case with a 9" SBR barrel, handling did not change that much. However, if you are installing this on a standard 14" or longer barrel, you will definitely feel it. Click Image For Larger View One concern that I do have, is the split design to retain the brake once it is threaded on. It relies on tension from two hex bolts. While this method makes clocking the device very simple, it does not look as clean as a more traditional crush or peel washer design. So depending on your level of gunsmithing, this can be a pro, or a con. That said, the craftsmanship was top notch. The finish was extremely uniform, and the brake was concentric even when checked with a mic. Even our odd-ball 19 x 1.25 threads were perfectly cut and sharp. Click Image For Larger View With the description complete, what really matters is how it performs. While the added weight did slightly alter the weapons balance, the reduction in recoil was appreciable. Most people who fired the weapon agreed it kicked similar to a gas-operated 7.62 NATO round. Without the brake, I would describe the kick as something between 12ga 00 and a 12ga slug. Cleaning the weapon with the brake was a snap, although quite a bit more messy. CLP tends to collect and stay hidden in the brake for quite some time. So all in all, whats our take? If you are a bench-rest shooter, this is an excellent brake with no drawbacks that should concern you. If you are a casual plinker, the same can be said. The only place this brake may have some significant drawbacks is in the tactical environment, where its added weight and bulk could wear on you after carrying it for hours in the field.
  21. Ardel Engineering AR-15 Lower

    The debate is endless as to which company builds the best lower receiver. Some say Mega, other will say ARA. With all the high end billet receivers coming onto the market, there are just as many entry level products. At under a hundred dollars, there has been some interest in the Ardel Engineering (AE) lower. A quick search of the internet and you can find a few reviews. Most of the reviews I found however were mixed. For this reason I wanted to do a review on one myself. Click Image For Larger View In the image above you can see the AE lower built up with pretty standard parts. We did opt to color fill the fire markings. If you are interested in doing the same, you can find a guide here: Color Fill DIY. At first glance, everything seems pretty typical. Before building the receiver out, we did take the time and check all the specs. All the holes and channels for the fire control group were within 0.003", which is more than tight enough tolerance. The take down pins were a very tight fit and are still stiff but this is what you want. From the function standpoint we encountered no issues. Click Image For Larger View The outside and finish were a different story. In several places there were machining burs left behind. When removed these burs leave metal showing. This is easy to fix with touchup, but obviously not ideal. If you look close at the image below you can see a few of these burs. You will also notice that the machining is not smooth. While this has no effect on performance, it can be annoying. Click Image For Larger View All and all, I would still consider one of these lowers for a budget build, if I could get it for 50-60 dollars. If you are paying more than that, there are better options out there.
  22. If you follow Magpul products at all, you have no doubt heard about their UBR collapsible stock. A striking feature you will notice right off about this stock is the fact the bottom portion is the sliding portion. A few other note worthy features are its sling attachments, storage compartment, solid feel, and its equally solid price tag. With a retail price of just under $300 dollars shipped, if you shop around you can find it in stock and under $250 shipped from places such as Optical Soultions. You will see people all over the web asking, "is it worth it?". Click Image For Larger View p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } At first glance the stock seems pretty basic. 7 positions, a storage compartment, and a release lever. However as you start to look closer you will notice this stock has several subtle features. One of the features I liked was the ability to remove the storage compartment. As a personal preference, I like having an open skeletonized stock. For those who are interested in using it, there is enough room for 123 batteries or an extra firing pin. Click Image For Larger View p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } Slide the stock out of its collapsed position, and you will immediately notice that it is the bottom portion that slides not the top. While it is novel, it also serves a real purpose. No more pulled beards, or pinched skin. In addition the weapon points and feels much more like the traditional A1/A2 stock. Another nice feature is the fact the stock can be set up to have presets. Setting the preset length is as simple as moving a set screw. Click Image For Larger View p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } The locking mechanism shown below is impressive in its own right. While it takes some getting used to, the system is incredibly strong and locks up very tight. This is something that is critically important when firing the over sized calibers such as .450, .458 SOCOM, or .50 Beowulf. In the image below you can also seethe forward ambidextrous quick release. Click Image For Larger View A common upgrade to the UBR is the p { margin-bottom: 0.08 aluminum strike plate. Shown below is the upgraded plate with the stock sling mount shown above it. Worth a mention is that the stock sling plate is actually some form of polymer, not actually alloy like the upgraded piece. Click Image For Larger View p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } For all of the great features there are some draw backs. The stock is very heavy at 1.72 pounds on my scales. This is over twice the weight of some other stocks out there. On a large bore build, one can argue that this helps with the balance. No matter how you cut it though, this is a heavy stock. In traditional Magpul style there is a flat head screw on the extension tube. I have complained about this in other reviews of Magpul products and it still bothers me. Having said that the stock is very well built. All the screws you ever need to change the configuration are included. Click Image For Larger View So back to the question at hand. Is it worth it? For a big bore high end build, without a doubt. For a low drag fast CQB weapon, I would probably look else where. That said stay tuned for an update one how this works coupled with a 5.7x28 SBR upper. For discussion or questions on this stock see: Magpul UBR Stock Review.
  23. Every couple years you should go through your tritium sights and see which ones need replaced. From experience 10 years seems to be about right. Officially pure tritium has a half-life of just over 12 years, but most of the night sights we have experience with decay perceivably faster. After much experience with both Trijicon and Meprolight we took a look at Truglo. Truglo (trueglow) comes in at about the same price as any other brand. You can find Truglo sights here for around $60.00. The added feature of Truglo over its competitors is that it also features a fiber optic dot for day time use. Click Image For Larger View Right out of the package you will see a few major differences with Truglo. Most obvious is the much larger form factor. In the case of the Sig P239 the front sight was over 26mm long. The rear sight also uses a hex screw for added security. I am not sure this features is needed, but I suggest a dab of loc-tight on the set screw to keep it in place. The next thing you will notice is that in daylight the Truglo sights are indeed much brighter. Usually sight installation consists of tapping out the old sights with a punch from right to left then reinstalling the new sights from the other direction. Truglo does not recommend the use of a hammer and punch and instead urges you to use a sight pusher. That said I have installed these on occasion with a hammer and punch and had no issues as long as care is taken. Click Image For Larger View In the above photo you can see a 10 year old set of Meprolights on the left next to a new set of Truglo sights in the middle. On the right are a set of factory Sig P238 sights on a 6 month old fire arm. There is a clear difference between the old sights and new. As claimed the Truglo sights are brighter than factory or Meprolight sights. My only concern is how durable are they. I will follow up with any issues, but as of right now they seem to be very robust.So all in all I say this is a good investment if you want brighter sights. For more information of questions see the TruGlow discussion topic.
  24. Since there is already a primer on Nickel Boron platings in the Fail Zero review, we can jump right into this. Wanting to see how well nickel boron holds up in a heavy wear environment, I decided we needed to coat a pistol. Unlike most people I actually fire my Desert Eagle, and it hands down had one of the roughest finishes I had ever seen on a weapon. Click Image For Larger View While I was not looking for a high polish chrome finish, I did not want something that did not try and pit and rust every time the weather took a turn towards the rainy side. Above you can see the stripped frame showing some holster wear as well as some wear under the grips. Even well oiled this weapons would show surface rust on humid days. Click Image For Larger View After a solvent hot dip and an HCL bath, the remainder of the bluing was gone along with any light surface rust. On the beaver tail and above the grips there was some light pitting which I removed with a wire brush and 400 grit sand paper before giving it a quick media blasting and one last acid bath. Click Image For Larger View Plated out to 0.0005" the frame looked completly plated. However on the frame itself I continued to plate out to 0.0010" as this is a high wear location and there were no clearance issues. On the rest of the weapon plating was stopped at 0.0005". The barrel and gas ports were plugged to prevent any issues there. Click Image For Larger View After a light polish you can see the end results above. The finish came out uniform, and had the flat appearance I wanted thanks to media blasted finish of the metal. If a bright finish is desired that can be done also. Longterm follow ups will show how well this holds up. Operation wise the weapon is extremely slick feeling even with no lube. Cleaning it up now is a breeze and more importantly it shows no desire to flash rust when it is humid.
  25. With the plethora of rails on the market it is easy to get lost in all of the hype. What it really boils down to is, what are your requirements and are you planning to install it yourself? For a free float system plan on spending $100-$300 dollars. The difference in price depends on what brand you opt for and how much you shop around. While LaRue Tactical hands down makes one of the nicest rails out there, there are deals out there to be had for much less. Enter the Yankee Hill Machining Diamond Series. For the best price on this rail see: JSE Surplus if they do not have it in stock the best best place I have found is here: Diamond YHM Rail. Click Image For Larger View At 12.7oz it comes in a hair heavier than the claimed weight of the same sized LaRue rail. Having said that, they do make a lightweight option and the LaRue rail we weighed was a full oz over its claimed weight. In a .458/.50 build strength should be of higher importance than weight anyways. The optional end cap shown above is another reason we often opt for this rail. At only a few dollars extra is provides a finished look other systems lack. Installation of the rail requires no special considerations (except the optional end cap) and can be completed with standard tools and an armorers wrench. Click Image For Larger View As with any good deal there is a small catch to this rail. While the finish is well above average, it is not quite on par with some of the more expensive rails. As seen above burs are somewhat common, but easy to fix. A small wooden dowel can be used to rub down any such burrs while having little to no effect on the rail or its finish. The only other annoyance I found with this rail is the lack of filler screws for the un-used sling mounts. With a somewhat odd 5/16 x 32 thread pitch these are not easy to find. I would advise ordering them with your rail. Click Image For Larger View While all uppers are slightly different, I had no issues installing the rail very little gap between the top receiver. With plastigauge it was measure at .0011 which is more than acceptable. At half the cost as other solutions, the only issues is has can be corrected for a few dollars, and ten minutes of your time. With all of this said, I cannot ever see buying a different rail.
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